![]() I would not use wood wedges in a case like yours because wood splinters and gets into the crack and prevents the clamping from closing the crack completely. This should spread the crack to allow glue insertion. Press the wedges into the crack from the inner side of the stock, you may need to tap them in carefully with a small hammer. I pound the ends of the finishing nails to create a thin wedge at the pointed ends of the nails. The only thing he left off was a reference to Tom’s 1/3 Mix □ (selfless plug).” While I haven’t used Tom’s 1/3 mix, I have heard good things about it.What I do on a crack like that is make tiny wedges from #4 penny nails. And I got this note from Thomas Hinds… “I love it when people listen and pull together resources.Also on the CMP website, the Wood Cleaning guide has useful information on the care and feeding of you M1 Garand, M1903 or M1 Carbine stock.You can get the stuff at any good paint store. If the oil finish you buy says wait two hours, then wait two hours and then some. Don’t overdo it (two light applications are better than one heavy application) and don’t rush it. I’ve used Linseed Oil on numerous gunstock and furniture projects. Clear shellac (2 coats max) for inside the barrel channel, action, etc to stabilize/ seal the action and stock, Oil finish the rest of the stock.Also wear rubber gloves. Repeat till you are satisfied.” You don’t want any dust between the coats. Apply lightly, when dry buff with 0000 steel wool. I think Tung oil is better as it seems to be more neutral in color. ![]() I’ve also used Boiled Linseed in the past.
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